Friday, February 29, 2008

Chūka man: Japan's answer to the meat pie?

The Australian Meat Pie: A shell of baked pastry, filled with any of the following: beef, buffalo, camel, cattle, deer, goat, hare, pig, poultry, rabbit and sheep. The manufacturers will make a special point of telling you if the meat involved is beef; otherwise it's just a "meat" pie. "Meat" can include snouts, ears, tongue roots, tendons and blood vessels. Manufacturers are obliged to tell you if they use offal (but noses and ears are OK). Meat pies are usually served with a sachet of "dead horse" (that's tomato sauce to you), and can be purchased at just about any deli, office canteen, supermarket, tavern or servo.

Chūka man: A steamed bun, (usually) filled with pork mince (sorry--I don't know anything more specific than that) and vegetables, and accompanied by a sachet of very hot mustard. You'll find these in just about any convenience store, and also in many supermarkets. I don't know if you can get them at the service stations over here, but, like the meat pie, they can also be purchased cold and whacked in the microwave.

After re-reading what I wrote above about the Aussie meat pie, I think it's safe to say that I'm off meat pies from here on in--and I'm sure many of you are as well. (You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but you can, evidently, make a meat pie. Even so, you can't make me eat it.) Chūka man, on the other hand, are absolutely fantastic. Especially at the end of a night on the tiles (kebabs are rare in Japan), which makes me regret not getting one last Saturday night. If there's anything I should know about the mince, please keep it to yourself and don't spoil this for me.

(P.S. For some reason I've been calling these things gyōza.)

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

169

(That's the number of kanji characters Emma has memorised. Matt has not been nearly as diligent.)

Just a brief update on what we've been up to . . .

  • Making preparations for when our parents visit in about three weeks. (Yes, both sets are coming. No, they won't be here simultaneously.)
  • Being re-contracted as ALTs for a second year.
  • Introducing Kobe Takatsuka students to Australian slang. They are now familiar with the terms "dropkick," "bogan" and "goon." My English Speaking Society girls have also been apprised of what "Goon of Fortune" entails (and no--I didn't give them a demonstration. What you must think of me!)
  • Learning a new card game from Goran and Dan K that should keep us happy on long train journeys.
  • Not remembering a good portion of Saturday night's journey to Club Pure and karaoke in Osaka--which is probably for the best.


Now, for the necrophages among you, see if you can guess which extraterrestrial organism's brain this Japanese delicacy is made from:

Thursday, February 21, 2008

A spot at high school

Imagine, you are fourteen. You have been brought up hearing the tragedies of the Hanshin-Awaji earthquake. Your parents tell you of the screams and the flames and the fear. You’ve resolved to be prepared, to be trained.

Now, at your junior school you hear of a high school that specializes in teaching youngsters these very skills. You are very excited. No longer will school be the painful drudgery of a prison, it will be the ship carrying you to your fulfilling adult life. Unfortunately, this ship only has place for 40 passengers, so you will have to earn your passage. With three of your like-minded junior school friends, you set about studying every night. Each night the hours roll past and your eyes grow heavy, but you are determined.

The exam day arrives. You are prepared. 69 other students sit around you in the high school’s examination hall. There are only 40 places. Their pens swiftly move from one question to the next. Their ease makes you uneasy. You go home worried that your efforts, your ability, will not suffice. For 4 days you worry.

Finally, today you will know. You arrive at school, frazzled: excited and nervous every time the clock’s rotation brings the minute hand closer to lunchtime. In your teacher’s car with your three classmates, you make your way back the examination hall. You stand in the courtyard before the building. Icy winds lash your bare legs, you are hardly able to clutch onto your examination number. Parents and teachers watch from the side, watch you and the other hopefuls huddle, exposed, in the centre of the courtyard. With the stress, anticipation and tiredness you start to sob. Try to look up at the second floor balcony. Try to blink those tears away before the numbers are revealed. Try to breath.

This story has one of two outcomes, either your number appears and you drop to the floor in a fit of free-flowing ebullient tears, or stoically you dry your eyes on your sleeve, bow your head and quietly leave the courtyard. Unfortunately, for 40 of the students the latter was their outcome. Unfortunately, for one girl as her three classmates cried with joy, she left the courtyard alone.

I hear mental illness and suicide is a problem here in Japan.

Saturday, February 16, 2008

The Japanese Room


Ever heard of the Chinese Room Argument? It’s a thought experiment by the philosopher John Searle, who wanted to argue against what he called “strong AI”, which is the idea that, if programmed sufficiently, a computer can think and understand. This is related to the Turing Test, in which a computer is deemed intelligent if it can sustain a conversation with you without you realising that you’re speaking with a computer. Here’s how Searle painted the scenario:
Imagine a native English speaker who knows no Chinese locked in a room full of boxes of Chinese symbols (a data base) together with a book of instructions for manipulating the symbols (the program). Imagine that people outside the room send in other Chinese symbols which, unknown to the person in the room, are questions in Chinese (the input). And imagine that by following the instructions in the program the man in the room is able to pass out Chinese symbols which are correct answers to the questions (the output). The program enables the person in the room to pass the Turing Test for understanding Chinese but he does not understand a word of Chinese. [ . . . ] The point of the argument is this: if the man in the room does not understand Chinese on the basis of implementing the appropriate program for understanding Chinese then neither does any other digital computer solely on that basis because no computer, qua computer, has anything the man does not have.
I feel like the man in the Chinese room. I keep blitzing these Japanese Language Course tests, but I still feel no more fluent in Japanese than I was when I first arrived here.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Of Snow and Snowmen


Without doubt, the sense most excited by snow is touch. From the gelid air tickling our exposed noses to the frosted ground seeking warmth through the souls of our shoes, the experience of snowy weather is a winter treat. At least this is what Amanda, Matt and I thought on Sunday when we reached the top of the Mt Rokko Sanyo Cable Car station and were greeted with freshly falling snow. However, this awe did wane a little later when our toes started to smart as blood retreated to our torso in an attempt to protect the organs vital for living.

Yet what really surprised me was the way snow affected each of my senses. Unlike touch which is stimulated by the presence of extreme cold, snow engages the senses of smell and sound by their absence (at least in my limited experience). By way of an example, Matt and I ventured up Mt Rokko last summer. The wretched air hung thick around us; our curry lunch stinking in the putrid heat; our sweat habitually wiped in attempts to disguise the odours (best left undescribed) emitted from our pores. And, the cries of children, distressed by their discomfort, the only complement to the day’s cacophony. In contrast, a snowy winter’s day on the mountain side was bereft of such things. All smells (and sweats) concealed beneath a delicate layer of snow, my sushi keep fresh and odourless by the cool temperature and the only sound—silent snowflakes waltzing to rest on the mountain’s edge.

Then there is sight. The sense that had brought us to the mountain. Kobe city holds an annual ice sculpture competition: huge chunks of ice are hauled from the Japan Sea and plonked on the mountain for skilled ice sculptors to have their way with them. Some were truly magnificent, as you can see in the slideshow. Also, you might notice our own attempt at snow sculpture—bringing our past and present together in the form of the snowman koala.
(Click image for slideshow)

Finally, arguably the most important sense of all, taste. I enjoyed many a tasty snow cone in my childhood, those shaved chunks of ice flavoured with sugary red raspberry and green coola cordial, but that’s not what I’m referring to here. While enjoying our bento lunch, Amanda and I watched this little boy pick up soft fluffy snow and lick it from his fingers for 5 minutes straight. Not quite brave enough to get that in touch with snow (as the snow was covering the pathways I had no way of knowing what had been tredding on it), I settled for eating this snowman. I’ve been eying him off for a week in the shop window and decided today was the day to take the plunge and taste a “snowman.” He was a delicious little fellow made out of bread, filled with regular and chocolate custard, and covered with white chocolate and icing. I especially appreciated his smile which he kept even as I brained him with my teeth!

How can I describe the taste of UCC Blend 117 instant coffee?


You know how there's this really rare and delicious kind of coffee that is made from beans that have been fermented in the digestive tract of a civet cat? Well, UCC Blend 117 tastes like the manufacturers didn't bother to wait for the beans to drop.*

Mind you, UCC drip coffee tastes fantastic. But as far as instant goes, Japan's going to have to dig deep to top Mocha Kenya, Moccona Classic or Nescafe Gold. (There is a "Nescafe Gold Blend" available in Japan, but it's just not the same.)

*Pablo. That's what it tastes like. Pablo. Probably great for smuggling cocaine through Customs, but nobody in their right mind actually drinks the stuff.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Setsubun


Two weekends back, Goran, Dan K, Emma and I visited Nagata shrine for the Setsubun festival. Technically, there is a setsubun at the beginning of each season, but the one at the beginning of "Spring" (I use the scare quotes deliberately) is almost like a second New Year, when the locals cleanse themselves of ill fortune by throwing soy beans at Oni (a.k.a. demons).

Nagata Shrine lies close to the commercial school at which I teach on Monday afternoons, and according to legend it dates back to the 4th century CE, when it was founded by the Empress Jingu. On February 3rd of each year it plays host to the Tsuina ceremony, which involves the exorcising of demons by means of seven youths wearing demon masks and dancing to the music of a conch shell. If that description hasn't sold it for you, maybe the slideshow below will:
(Click the image above to see a slideshow)

Upon entering the shrine, we armed ourselves with soybeans in the hope of arcing them at some bad boys from Hades, but alas! no beans were to be cast that day, either on stage or off it. So Goran amused himself by squeezing his head into an Oni mask that was far too small for it, and frightening Japanese children (and Emma). The rest of us sampled some of the wares at the food stalls that always accompany Japanese festivals, including a delicious fish-shaped pancake waffle known as taiyaki.
The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist. (Click the image for a slideshow)

Monday, February 11, 2008

For windy winter worriers

(P.S. This post was written by Emma)



I’ve always suffered in winter. Its frosty mornings, biting cloud-covered middays, bitter evenings, with nothing but night’s miserable cold for bookends. Indelible memories of moments in high school classrooms spent trying to will blood to return to the ends of sore blue toes will be forever attached to its very utterance.

It was with caution, then, that I approached Japan’s winter, undoubtedly much more severe than any I had experienced in Perth’s temperate climate. And now after 2 months of winter already past, I feel (hopefully not prematurely) assured that not only will I survive Kobe’s worst, but indeed thrive in it.

Now, it’s not that my circulation has improved or that it’s unseasonably warm, it’s that my outlook for winter dressing has changed. (Actually I am told that it is a little warmer than last year, but with maximum temperatures not exceeding 5 and 6 degrees, I feel safe in saying that comparative to Perth, it’s cold).

During a Perth winter, wearing stockings, knee-hi socks, wool fully-lined pants, long-sleeved nanna vest, turtle neck, wool jumper, wool cardigan, hooded knee-length down jacket, scarf, insulated gloves and beanie would get you laughed all the way to Tasmania. But here in Kobe . . . well actually I get laughed here too for my super doper heat retaining shield (commonly known as clothes), every single day in fact. However, the difference is that here in Japan I am a foreigner, so it’s perfectly acceptable for me to be “soft.”

Nonetheless, and this is a lesson I will be taking home with me, when it’s cold it’s okay to wear too many layers because, as I have learnt, being ridiculed pales in comparison to having a happy winter!

For those Perthies wanting to take the “Keep Warm this Winter 2008 Challenge,” here’s the bare minimum of layers needed to stay toasty warm no matter where you are:

Do this and you to and kill the winter blues!

Friday, February 8, 2008

While we probably should be watching Japanese TV to pick up the language . . .

. . . we've been occupied with this instead:



Life on Mars is a British cop drama set in 1973, but with a twist: the main character is from 2006, and as far as he is aware he is in a coma after having been hit by a car. Brilliant acting, great storylines and--the theme music aside--a fantastic soundtrack. Here are a few samples:

David Bowie -- "Life on Mars?"


Wings -- "Live and Let Die"


Slade -- Coz I Luv You

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Hiroshima

Oh dear!

It’s the end of January and we still haven’t posted about Matt and Emma’s et al. Excellent Adventures in Hiroshima. Well with the same crew that attended the nabe feast at Goran’s pad, we headed down to Hiroshima on the 1st of January. There were a few tired and sore heads on the 6 hour train ride (Cassie might want to develop her own spin off show called Cassie and Cassius’ Night to Remember in the comments), but nothing can stop ESL teachers enthusiasm for word games—on this occasion our penchant lead to a word association game marathon—or our joy at passing through valleys walled by snow topped mountains.

After a fabulous okonomiyaki dinner, the oyster topped one being my personal favourite, we strolled down one of Hiroshima’s delightfully wide streets. Being the festive season, there were many figures dressed in different coloured lights lining the street, they made up a presentation called Dreamination. While the first figure of a red phoenix was spectacular with its imposing puffed up breast, none of us would have been fazed had it suddenly come to life and breathed hot fire in our direction as we would have quickly quelled it with our equally icy hands.















The next day we went to Miyajima Island via tram. This mountainous island is listed among Japan’s three most beautiful places and no doubt it is. At the ferry station we were greeted by Miyajima’s beautiful silhouetted peaks juxtaposed against the clear blue of the winter sky. Approaching by ferry, some of the islands mysteries were unveiled when the red floating gate, for which the island is famous, came into sight as well as the appearance of its snow topped trees. Finally, once we docked, the last of the islands endearing elements came to the fore as gentle deer wandered around nuzzling at our hands and bags.





Our group split so we could pursue our different interests, some went to scale the mountains, others went to shop and wander around the ferry area, but Matt, Amanda, Tamara and I took a leisurely walk around the lower hills and temples. There we found that not only is the island itself beautiful, but so is the view it commands of the mainland. Also, that not all temple statues inspire awe—check out the Anpanman look-alike (the god of bread perhaps?).

By night we returned to Hiroshima city and walked around Peace Memorial Park, the site of the Peace Museum and the Atomic Bomb Dome. The latter is the remaining shell of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, which was the building closest to the centre of the atomic blast that stayed standing. The structure was eerily lit with green flood lights. Rubble, which had once been the hall’s walls, lay at its base. The destruction we witnessed here was only the start of what was to be a harrowing morning at the Peace Museum the next day.

The museum had a combination of facts about nuclear weapons and their effects, Japan's involvement in the Second World War, the history of Hiroshima, peace efforts and anti-nuclear treaties, and remains of people who were killed by the bomb. This last section of the exhibition was the most moving as it included (translated) oral accounts of the day of the bomb, the charred remains of school uniforms and supplies that were worn by children who were killed in the blast (often a name tag on a school bag or lunch box being the only way a parent could identify a child as their own), life size models of people with their arms outstretched showing what the melted and hanging skin from their fingertips would have looked like, and the steps of a bank located at the centre of the blast upon which is a permanent shadow--the only remains of a man who sat there waiting for the bank to open on the day of the blast. Finally, and perhaps the most devastating because of the lingering suffering they imply, are the collection of fused spine joints, mops of matted hair, ulcerated tongues, blackened fingernails and skin, pictures of swollen scarred skin, and the recollections of desperate mothers who watched their beloved children spew blood, all of which were aberrations in the human body caused by exposure to radiation. It was quite a sobering morning.